My best friend's father used to say this phrase all the time when we were growing up. While I wouldn't call him a wealthy man, he really thought long and hard about where his money was going.
With our wardrobes, it can be easy to get sucked in by designer names, sales, outlet stores and trends. So how do you know if something is worth your investment (big or small)?
There are some telltale signs of quality that I always keep in mind.
* You shouldn't be able to see the hem
This is a big one for me because so many times I can see the stitching of the hem on the outside of the garment and this immediately screams cheap (or bad tailoring). This can happen with a skirt, a dress or even a coat.
* Loose threads
This occurs a lot in fast fashion, but can happen at any price point when items are mass produced. While I wouldn't walk away from a garment with loose threads, I would consider what I'm buying --- I don't want to spend a lot of money on something I'm going to wear a lot (like a winter coat), only to have it fall apart or need to be fixed after a month of wear.
* Reinforced buttons
This is a sure sign of quality as I almost never see small, reinforced buttons on any inexpensive or mid-range items. Little, reinforced buttons don't need to be on everything - they're best on items you are wearing a lot like a winter coat, a trench coat, or a sport coat (they're usually buttons that are a bit smaller than the ones you see on the outside of the garment, that are sewn on the inside to make the outside button stronger).
All these little extras take time (and money), which is why you won't see them on very cheap clothing items.
* Matching patterns
I probably point this one out the most -- to men and women. Unless a pattern is truly random (like an animal print), it should always match at the seams. If it doesn't, this is another factor that we can easily spot and looks cheap.
Men -- stripes on polos or t-shirts should match at the sleeve. Sport coats and suits should also always match at the arm and at the seams. Make sure pinstripes line up.
Women -- patterns should match on the sides of dresses and skirts (and wherever there is a zipper sewn in).
* Zippers
Speaking of zippers, not only should they match the color of the garment (yes, in some women's fashions they are made to stand out), but they're more durable when they're metal and not plastic.
Most buttons nowadays are also plastic. For men, when you really want to look sharp and are spending a bit of money, a great sign of quality is horn or mother-of-pearl buttons -- this is a subtle little detail that can really finish off the right suit, shirt or coat.
* Avoid anything super shiny
Shiny buttons, jewelry and hardware on bags happens a lot in women's fashion (not so much with men). While things like buttons can be changed, I usually won't even buy the garment because I'm pretty sure the rest of it is going to be crap (itchy fabric, loose threads, uneven stitching).
Really cheap handbags and jewelry usually fall victim to the shininess factor and are waaaay too shiny to ever look good (or real). You don't have to opt for matte metals, but super shiny should be avoided.
* Country of origin
Lastly, but most importantly, you can tell a lot about a garment by where it's made. No surprise, but "Made in China" or "Made in the Philippines" is not the same as "Made in the USA" or "Made in Italy".
These finishing details require extra time, better materials, and skilled workers. This doesn't mean these things can't be found overseas, but items that cost a bit more and are worth your hard earned money, will usually be finished in places other than China or India.
If you're unsure, just ask. The sales associates should be knowledgeable about the garments on their sales floor and will be happy to answer your questions.
Hopefully this will shed some light on how to recognize quality when shopping for anything, anywhere -- at home, online or abroad!