My best friend's father used to say this phrase all the time when we were growing up. While I wouldn't call him a wealthy man, he really thought long and hard about where his money was going.
With our wardrobes, it can be easy to get sucked in by designer names, sales, outlet stores and trends. So how do you know if something is worth your investment (big or small)?
There are some telltale signs of quality that I always keep in mind.
* You shouldn't be able to see the hem
This is a big one for me because so many times I can see the stitching of the hem on the outside of the garment and this immediately screams cheap (or bad tailoring). This can happen with a skirt, a dress or even a coat.
* Loose threads
This occurs a lot in fast fashion, but can happen at any price point when items are mass produced. While I wouldn't walk away from a garment with loose threads, I would consider what I'm buying --- I don't want to spend a lot of money on something I'm going to wear a lot (like a winter coat), only to have it fall apart or need to be fixed after a month of wear.
* Reinforced buttons
This is a sure sign of quality as I almost never see small, reinforced buttons on any inexpensive or mid-range items. Little, reinforced buttons don't need to be on everything - they're best on items you are wearing a lot like a winter coat, a trench coat, or a sport coat (they're usually buttons that are a bit smaller than the ones you see on the outside of the garment, that are sewn on the inside to make the outside button stronger).
All these little extras take time (and money), which is why you won't see them on very cheap clothing items.
* Matching patterns
I probably point this one out the most -- to men and women. Unless a pattern is truly random (like an animal print), it should always match at the seams. If it doesn't, this is another factor that we can easily spot and looks cheap.
Men -- stripes on polos or t-shirts should match at the sleeve. Sport coats and suits should also always match at the arm and at the seams. Make sure pinstripes line up.
Women -- patterns should match on the sides of dresses and skirts (and wherever there is a zipper sewn in).
* Zippers
Speaking of zippers, not only should they match the color of the garment (yes, in some women's fashions they are made to stand out), but they're more durable when they're metal and not plastic.
Most buttons nowadays are also plastic. For men, when you really want to look sharp and are spending a bit of money, a great sign of quality is horn or mother-of-pearl buttons -- this is a subtle little detail that can really finish off the right suit, shirt or coat.
* Avoid anything super shiny
Shiny buttons, jewelry and hardware on bags happens a lot in women's fashion (not so much with men). While things like buttons can be changed, I usually won't even buy the garment because I'm pretty sure the rest of it is going to be crap (itchy fabric, loose threads, uneven stitching).
Really cheap handbags and jewelry usually fall victim to the shininess factor and are waaaay too shiny to ever look good (or real). You don't have to opt for matte metals, but super shiny should be avoided.
* Country of origin
Lastly, but most importantly, you can tell a lot about a garment by where it's made. No surprise, but "Made in China" or "Made in the Philippines" is not the same as "Made in the USA" or "Made in Italy".
These finishing details require extra time, better materials, and skilled workers. This doesn't mean these things can't be found overseas, but items that cost a bit more and are worth your hard earned money, will usually be finished in places other than China or India.
If you're unsure, just ask. The sales associates should be knowledgeable about the garments on their sales floor and will be happy to answer your questions.
Hopefully this will shed some light on how to recognize quality when shopping for anything, anywhere -- at home, online or abroad!
3 Things Ruining Your Fall Style (And What to Do Instead)
When it comes to fashion, fall is where it's at. Textures, layers, coats, tights, scarves... there are so many glorious possibilities, but a few items can make you look dated. Now is a good time to get rid of them and upgrade your style!
Argyle
In a man's wardrobe, a little argyle is nice, but for women, it looks dated. Can you name a chic woman who wears argyle? No? Me neither.
If you like preppy or classic styles (as argyle suggests), then I would recommend a camel skirt (every woman can wear this color on the bottom half of the body) with a black top, cardigan, blazer, fitted turtleneck or sweater. Camel and black are like peanut butter and chocolate - they always look good together!
Pleather/Cheap Boots
We've heard it before, but nothing says more about your sense of style than your shoes. They set the tone of an outfit and speak volumes about your eye for quality and style. Therefore, you don't want to be wearing anything that cheapens your look!
Pleather boots very rarely last more than one season and very quickly, they can start to show their wear and tear.
For example, in this picture, we can see the ends of the buckle flaps sticking out - on both sides of her legs! We don't want loose threads on garments, buttons hanging off, or buckles sticking out. This does not a chic woman make.
Unfortunately, a cobbler can't do anything with this since he's working with synthetic materials. Leather boots are a little bit more of an investment, but they are easier to maintain, last longer, and are a great basic to have. If you take care of them (polish, resole), you will have them for many years (and outfits!) to come!
Quality shoes should be made with leather on the out and inside of the shoes (allows your feet to breath and stretch) and can be polished to last several seasons. Leather soles are also ideal, but rubber is good too.
Plaid
While this pattern doesn't look dated, there are very few plaids that look nice. To put it bluntly, most plaid skirts, coats, handbags and scarves look kind of cheap.
Patterns are great in the fall and add depth and visual interest to your wardrobe, but steer clear of plaid. Many times it's too wide of a pattern and reminds me of the brown and pink plaid we saw a lot of in the '90s. Herringbone, chevron, diamonds, dots and leopard print are all a yes and look a bit more modern than plaid.
There are so many options out there, I know you won't be limited for choices. What's your favorite thing to wear in the fall?
If you want more style tips, check out my free monthly newsletter. In this issue I talked a bit more about a camel skirt - how to wear it and what to look for with length. Enjoy!
Tailoring - What to Know
Part of looking stylish and put together is making sure your clothes fit correctly. We've heard it before, a tailor can take an inexpensive item and make it look like it was made for you by making the right tweaks. Here's what you need to know when doing alterations.
* When adjusting things to be smaller, two sizes is usually the most an item can be altered. If you're going from a size 12 to 6, you basically asking to have the whole garment remade and it won't look right.
* Almost everything can be altered except button holes, arm holes and the crotch on a pair of pants. I tell my clients that if the crotch doesn't fit, then you have to walk away! Otherwise, everything is else is doable. (My favorite adjustment is to make the sleeves narrower, which greatly decreases any unnecessary volume on the body and instantly makes you look slimmer - especially for men's shirts!)
* Even though most things can be tailored, some are a bit more complicated. The shoulder is the most complicated joint in the body and no surprise, it's also the most complex when it comes to tailoring. The shoulder is usually altered when there is a detail on the bottom of the sleeve that we don't want to lose.
Some other things you have to watch out for are stretchy fabrics because they move when put through a sewing machine. This means that sometimes a hem can turn out uneven. A good tailor should make you aware of this.
* Lastly, when it comes to finding a good tailor, remember that they should have an opinion. You will probably put on the garment to be alter and then tell him or her what you want done, but an experienced tailor has seen (and worked with) all of it. They should pipe up and tell you that the dress is better at such-and-such proportion or that taking in the dress at the sides will ruin how the rest of it fits.
Understanding proportion and length is something I'm constantly addressing in the lessons for The Style Academy as well as on my Stylish After 40 blog (only for pictures of women's outfits... for now :).
In the world of style, an inch or two can make all the difference. Sloppy or clothes that are too loose add pounds and can be frumpy.